MESSINA HOF CHAMPIONS WINE EDUCATION, AWARENESS AND TOURISM

WORDS BY ASHLEY BROWN I PHOTOS BY MESSINA HOF

Messina Hof, one of Texas’ largest wine producers, wrapped up its fall harvest in October. With fresh, crisp whites finishing in stainless steel and rich reds aging in oak barrels, they have many new and exciting wines on the horizon.

While they produce 98 different wines, perhaps their most unique offering is sagrantino. This varietal may be a bit of a mystery even to avid wine lovers here in Texas — for good reason, as Messina Hof is the first in Texas to produce it. The grape has an interesting and slightly controversial history. Some Italians, including some folks at the University of Perugia, believe it was indigenous to Umbria (southeast of Rome); others believe it may have arrived from the Middle East in the Medieval Era.

“For most of its life, it was made as a dessert-style, or passito- style, wine,” explains Messina Hof’s CEO and head winemaker Paul Mitchell Bonarrigo. “It’s one of the most tannic varieties in the world. It was hyper-regional, and highly coveted by Rome and surrounding areas. But it really didn’t get its big breakout as a dry-style red until the 1970s.”

Bonarrigo’s parents and founders of Messina Hof, Paul Vincent and Merrill Bonarrigo, had been hired by the University of Perugia to teach about wine tourism, something the brand has always been passionate about. There, they fell in love with sagrantino and were finally able to acquire vines to grow in Texas. In 2012, they planted three test vineyards of the grape.

“We had almost immediate success,” says Paul Vincent. “The vine thrives in our climate. It’s a thick-skinned grape. It retains acid wonderfully. It loves sunlight and the heat of both the High Plains and Bryan [home to the family and original estate].”

Though wine-making goes back seven family generations — to Messina, Sicily — the winery in Bryan was a happy accident. Paul Vincent grew up in New York and joined the military as a physical therapist. He then became director of physical therapy at St. Joseph Hospital in Bryan. One of his patients was doing a study on growing vines and encouraged Paul Vincent to plant an experimental vineyard. He did, and guided by their passion for wine, food, art and romance, Paul Vincent and Merrill developed a thriving brand — Messina Hof, a combination of their family names.

They now have four tasting rooms in the state; and as many Texas wineries do, they also grow vines in the High Plains, one of the state’s best locations for vineyards. The sagrantino growing sites in Montefalco, Italy have similar growing conditions to the High Plains. It also grows well in Bryan. The couple’s son Paul Mitchell has had a grand time developing extraordinary wines with the grape.

“Our customers are falling in love with it too,” says Paul Mitchell. He explains that their biggest challenge has never been growing or wine making, it’s educating Texans about the wines. Most people haven’t heard of sagrantino, and if they’ve tried the Italian styles, they may have found them to be so tannic that it was almost distracting. Messina Hof’s style, however, is a bit more restrained while still being robust. The Sagrantino Reserva is the mildest, with a fruity aroma of black cherries and low acidity. The Estate Sagrantino is an earthy dynamic wine, with aromas of leather and pepper that open up nicely while offering a more fruit-forward nose. The Paulo Sagrantino is the most robust and tannic — a delightful pairing with steak and other popular Texas cuisine. Messina Hof is also known for their port, and the sagrantino makes a rich and delectable one. The grape is working so well for them that Paul Mitchell is currently incorporating it into their Sophia Marie Rosé, named after his daughter.

As a champion of wine education, awareness and tourism, Messina Hof focuses heavily on hospitality and providing customers with unique experiences at all four of their locations. “We’re blessed to have the opportunity to have our products sold in the wholesale market,” says Paul Mitchell. “And a lot of that is geared toward trying to encourage people to come visit us at the wineries and have a personal connection with us. We want to be able to let people experience Texas wine and talk about the changes that have happened in our industry even in the last ten years. The quality is improving and we’re making amazing wines from a lot of varieties, including sagrantino, mourvedre and tempranillo. And along with that comes food, southern charm and hospitality.”

What can visitors find at the Messina Hof wineries across the state? The Estate in Bryan, started in 1977, offers a true resort experience where wine lovers can spend a whole weekend without leaving. Their 100-acre property features 11 B&B rooms, a restaurant offering elegant dining, spaces for special events, and of course vineyards, specializing in lenoir, sagrantino and blanc du bois.

They opened the Hill Country location in Fredericksburg in 2011. This is a charming and smaller tasting room and vineyard with four guest cottages. Their specialty is a port, and customers are invited to participate in the hand-picking and stomping during the harvest festival and really learn about the wine-making process.

The urban Grapevine tasting room is located in the historic Wallis Hotel, and features multiple tasting areas with 40 different wines, premium flights, wine on tap, scrumptious small plates, wine accessories and event spaces.

Messina Hof Harvest Green Winery & Kitchen in Richmond is the newest addition. Harvest Green is a planned community centered on the concept of farm-to-table. Every home in the community must have fruit trees or a garden, and there’s a community garden and a farmers market held in the Messina Hof parking lot. The ultimate culinary destination, the winery and restaurant celebrate vineyard cuisine, which enhances the food and wine pairing experience by incorporating wine in every recipe.

Messina Hof always has something new to offer and plenty of events providing the opportunity to immerse yourself in the wine and vineyard cuisine experience. November’s Premier Release will feature the first 2024 vintage with the sémillon, and in the winter, they’ll be releasing the 2023 off-dry series, a popular series of wines with just a hint of sweetness.

Check out their website, messinahof.com, for all event details and more information about tastings, tours and overnights stays.

About the Contributor

Writer and editor Ashley Brown lives in Wimberley with her family of rescues: a dog, two cats, and two donkeys. In addition to animal welfare, her passion is exploring the Hill Country’s natural beauty, small farms, eateries and drinkeries.