HALTER RANCH OPENS WINE TASTING ROOM AND RESTAURANT

WORDS BY ASHLEY BROWN

Exterior view

Halter Ranch, which recently opened its doors in Fredericksburg, is bringing something unique to the Hill Country wine and cuisine scene: a focus on wines made from organically grown grapes and an immaculately designed wine tasting room and restaurant, which is located on 32 acres shaded by a canopy of oak trees.

The original location, the Halter Ranch Estate in Paso Robles, California, has been sustainably growing grapes and making delicious wine since 2005. Just 10 percent of that 2,700-acre property is dedicated to farming in order to preserve the diverse environment and mitigate the effects of monoculture. Now, they’re excited to expand with this new property, bringing to Texas their wines, passion for nature and appreciation of fine cuisine made with local ingredients.

Originally from Switzerland, owner Hansjörg Wyss is one of the world’s leading conservationists with a philanthropic organization that has helped protect over 100 million acres of land. When he started Halter Ranch, it was a fruit supplier, making a tiny bit of wine in an old airplane hangar on the property. When Wyss decided to expand the winemaking, he went all in and built a state-of-the-art gravity- flow winery and 20,000 square feet of wine caves. They now make 30,000–35,000 cases a year.

Wine and dining

After earning a degree in winemaking from Fresno State and working at JUSTIN Winery for a decade, Kevin Sass joined Halter Ranch as head winemaker. Having worked 25 harvests there, he’s extremely hands-on with both the vineyard and the winery. He’s now bringing that same focus to the development of wines made with Texas grapes but not just any grapes — any vineyard they partner with must farm organically as they do.

Vice president and general manager, Bryce Mullins, who came to Halter Ranch as an investment analyst admittedly knowing very little about wine, played an integral role in intensifying the estate vineyard’s commitment to organic farming — taking advantage of a climate that’s perfect for growing grapes. As his duties expanded to running the wine business, he learned a lot about agriculture and became zealous about organic practices. “It was actually quite scary to learn about all of the chemicals, herbicides and pesticides that are used that end up in what you’re eating or drinking,” he explains. “I also realized that when people are visiting tasting rooms, this is the closest they get to agriculture. This is a chance to talk about it.”

Sass fully acknowledges the challenges of organic farming in Texas vs. California, but he partnered with Bending Branch in Comfort, Texas who helped him find a couple of tiny organic family vineyards. They’re already making a delightful and refreshing Texas High Plains rosé and are working on a sparkling cab.

“We want to have Texas wine not only because we want to be part of that local community but I’m also really excited to work with the fruit from the state,” says Sass. “As a winemaker you’re always curious to see what different places are doing and gathering information. I have a keen interest in understanding the difference between Texas, Temecula [where their third property is], Paso Robles and Napa. I find it fascinating to be able to try something from the hands of winemakers from different regions, so you can pinpoint the style and see how place affects the color, acid and flavor differentials.”

It’s important to Halter Ranch that consumers understand the distinction between organic farming and organic wines. They are USDA-certified organic farmers, so their wines are made with 100-percent -organic grapes. But their wines don’t qualify as organic because they do add sulfur dioxide, which protects the longevity, allowing for quality aged wines.

Mullins is very proud of their organic certification, which required a rigorous four-year process to achieve. For him, it’s the start of implementing better and healthier practices that benefit the land and consumers. “It also makes great wines,” says Mullins. “We just make too much of it and needed more places to sell it!” Which led the team to Highway 290, the second busiest wine road in America. Their excitement about wine is relatively new, making Fredericksburg the perfect market for them. And they found the ideal property.

Unlike many wineries on 290, the building sits far off the road, behind a forest of oak trees, providing an incredibly serene setting whether you’re taking in the views from the tasting room or enjoying firepits outside. “We’re very nature-forward,” says Mullins. “And having all of these oak trees was just perfect because back home the ranch is covered with ancient oak trees.”

The structure is designed to harmonize with the natural land and wildlife, using glass, wood and stone and very little concrete or asphalt. Since breaking ground in 2021, Mullins and his wife Madison have been commuting from Paso Robles. Madison, a structural engineer, led the design and development, with Wyss also very involved in aesthetic choices.

Both the tasting room and restaurant feature floor-to-ceiling windows, allowing natural light to pour in. The restaurant — open to all — feels like fine dining without the pretense. The tables, set beautifully, are made of oak trees from the Paso Robles estate. “We harvest the trees when they fall and we have a gentleman onsite who’s a master craftsman, and we have our own mill. It’s nice to use a resource that comes directly from that land. It completes the picture for us,” explains Mullins.

Opposite the huge windows and stone fireplace is an open kitchen where chef Paul Arangorin has been training the Texas staff and developing inventive dishes that celebrate local ingredients. He has found many local vendors to partner with like ROAM Ranch, a regenerative farm, and Bakery JoJu. He has also been working with Sass to find the ideal wine pairings.

From the beauty of the property, tasting room and restaurant to the delectable wines and food, Halter Ranch is a delight for all of the senses and a welcome pioneer in developing Texas Hill Country wine and cuisine.

Halter Ranch’s brand-new Fredericksburg Winery is located at 8561 E Highway 290, Fredericksburg, TX 78624. You can learn more at halterranch.com/texas.

About the Contributor

Writer and editor Ashley Brown lives in Wimberley with her family of rescues: a dog, two cats, and two donkeys. In addition to animal welfare, her passion is exploring the Hill Country’s natural beauty, small farms, eateries and drinkeries.