• Make the rub by combining the seasonings in a bowl. Make the sop by mixing everything in a different bowl. Using your hands or a shaker, liberally dust the ribs and quail with the rub.
• Put the ribs on a hot grill to sear on all sides. If using a gas grill, reduce the heat to 250° and cook for 1½ to 2 hours (or 3 to 4 hours if sopping every 30 minutes or so). If using a charcoal grill, move the ribs to the cooler side of the grill after searing.
• Periodically turn and swab ribs with barbecue sauce (recipe below). You should swab the ribs from the very beginning if not using sop, and if using both, start with sop and switch to barbecue sauce at the end.
• The quail legs don’t take as long to cook. Sear them on both sides, move them to the cooler side of the grill and turn until desired doneness—approximately 1 hour, total (no sop or barbecue sauce on the quail legs).

For “Mom’s” barbecue sauce

• Add the olive oil to a hot pan and sauté the onion. When the onion is transparent, add everything else.
• Simmer the sauce during the whole rib-grilling process (or keep on warm the second two hours if using the extended rib-cooking time.)